Well, now you know, it totally works!!! But in short, it’s easy (no sanding or top coat), it makes your cabinets look and feel new and clean, and it brought out the natural woodgrain. A few of these are cutting it close, but the general idea is there. It was 61 and my table was 91.I killed the sheen on my table, and there was the color Maybe you could try to knock down the sheen. From your testing I realized I can use the red oak since my stain although not as dark as the jacobean will make seeing the difference in white vs. Red oak undetectable. Ft. of 4/4 and 10 Bd. That would be first on my list to investigate. I am wondering if there’s a way to tone down the red in the wood. I decided to get out the sheen meter and check the sheen of the sample board. At first, I didn’t even notice that it looks like they left the original hardware on the cabinets in the photo above. You can take the finish and brush it on a piece of white paper. I needed something to neutralize the red … A lower sheen level hides a lot, and I found in my case it even knocks down the red. And because I already shared all of the info for staining oak over on my Staining/Painting an OAK Banister post, take a peek over there first to see how to best stain your oak cabinets. The living room floor is part of the original hardwood floor that’s almost 70 years old. I know some of you must have some oak cabinets that you’ve been wanting to change. Red-toned woods can often flex red-purple or red-pink (pink being the lighter version of red). Raw umber has a slight greenish tint to it and will make a very subtle shift toward the brown tones from the reddish side. I’m going to need approximately 20 Bd. When it dries the paper will be lovely orange tone. I also … The kitchen floor is only two years old. I am working with the floor guy to maybe tint the street shoe with a green/brown color to tone down the red in the floor (but not change the color). If you need more green (to counter a stronger red tint) the easiest way is to look for a stain product that has … Weathered oak and and Classic Gray did not cover the red in the cedar enough. Ft. of 6/4. The next step for the floor would be 2 coats of "street shoe". 1/2 Weathered Oak to 1/2 Classic Gray; 3/4 Classic Gray to 1/4 Jacobean; Jacobean; None of these really gave me the look I wanted from the cedar. But also, this was another patch job. Jacobean was way too dark. I was going to use quarter sawn white oak vs. quarter sawn red oak. Again, totally different woods but very consistent undertones… Some gorgeous, more purple-inspired stain colours… Then, I would work with a designer who specializes in color for a color consult. Red-toned woods. That beginning line has been percolating in my head. It's true. Purple, pink or taupe-toned woods. 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